At a bare minimum he should have either had sprinklers running on the concrete having you move them around or the best would have had the slab covered in burlap and kept constantly wet. I like to keep the slab moist for days in the hot summer. Even if it is just turning the sprinkler on a few times a day. My husband decided to use mesh because it is more easily repairable. Neither of us have experience in this and he was advised this was a good option. It's a class C concrete, if that helps any.
The cheapest thing you can do for a slab is add more appropriately placed rebar. While mesh may suffice for you, I would never, ever, solely use it.
The thought of using mesh because it is easier to fix is not that sound Place concrete properly to never have to redo it.
Other opinions may vary, but with cracks like that I would consider filling the construction joints with Sika flex. In your freeze thaw climate you don't want water penetrating through the cracks.
SGC, thanks for your helpful advice. Some of the cracks extend into the cut joints. Should we put that product in there, too?
My husband also said that since many of our neighbors' concrete driveways have rust stains that have shown up after a year or two he wanted to avoid the rebar under ours.
We have fibers in our concrete, not sure if that's relevant at all. Yes, with cracks like that I would seal all cracks and construction joints. If there any more that are that size that you can fit a coin in, water is going to be an issue, or maybe not BUT you spend a pretty penny on that expansive driveway. Risk vs Reward. Protect your investment. Just wanted to update everyone.
We had an engineer come out and test the hardness of the driveway. It was psi after 21 days, said it would continue to harden. The cracks are fine, the control joints not going all the way to the edges were due to laziness on the part of the guy doing the cuts, he said. All seems to be ok. The man in charge of the pouring has not yet been out to look at it, however.
The Concrete that was poured in the did not crack or flake off. Was not poured in the rain. The rules are different today because of cheap and lazy. If water gets in the cracks and freezes over there will probably be problems. Yep, but it would be interesting if the OP would post pics of how the driveway has fared over the past three years! I layer a few bags of my cemete for the center of my garden. It always drizzles in Florida, and it did stop for a while poured at 4pm, finished in about an hour, the the drizzle came.
I went out at 8am and covered it but since this is a home project, I don't have access to anymore cement before buying more and I'm not sure it possible. I would post your own new post rather than piggy backing on an old post.
Add pics when you start your new thread. I've never been on this site before and if somehow, I eessed up, I apologize. I google for those who know what they're. This seemed perfect. And the above was very. The main reason for cracks is bc nine times out of ten when the contractor lets the concrete set up and start to dry and then goes again and adds water to it it causes the concrete to become weaker and weaker the more times it cures and then water is applied again.
Also it can happen when 2b is put down and not compacted before a pour the ground and 2b shifts with causes the concrete to crack. The 1 inch cut thats done in the concrete is so when or if the concrete should crack break bc of movement or weight it would break evenly and not cause a spider web break. Its never really recommended to pour on a very hot day and if you can avoid it then avoid it bc its better on a cool day being the concrete will dry on its own anyways either in cold conditions or under water but will not avoid the cause of flaking or cracking by doing so.
No one should ever add water if qhen the concrete sets up and if you push your finger down in it and see your print or feels dry. But that's if the pour was done in the last 4 hours bc with in that time your able to fix it after 4 hours then no water or anything bc you can mees up the cycle if its curing process.
But if it rains within the 4 and 8th hour its ok bc it will be hard enough so the rain water don't mess anything up. Now if you notice that the rain drops caused a problem and theirs standing water its ok to take a garden hose and pull the access water off and try to fix it but try not to cause more damage then it has bc remember you didn't want to mess the process up that has started or create more damage. Indem Sie weiterhin auf der Website surfen bzw.
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Like 4 Save. Hello, Curved walkways can be absolutely lovely - so long as they look like they are curving and not just wiggling from point "A" to point "B".
Look at the bend and flow of an old stream - the stream changes direction when it arrives at an object it cannot move, the water moves around the object, emphasizing the fluid nature of water by the path it creates as well as the relative permanence of what it diverts around.
The curves of a stream are not random. You get a sense of this in the "example" pathway you have included. The water seems to divert around a large boulder actually a large, evergreen shrub , meanders across a plain the lawn and curves away again when it meets up against another unyeilding object the low, stone entry wall.
Creating the effect of "flow" does not rely completely upon what is located on the ground plane - give the curves a reason for being where they are with the addition of landscaping.
The two ends of the walkway are both "collector" points, they should be more generous and the curves open outwards a bit rather than abruptly ending. If you are really panicked, try laying out garden hose or clothesline to work out the effect you are looking for.
Don't be afraid to lay out a few empty buckets or such to approximate where shrubs might be located. Do allow room between the house and walkway for plant materials. Have fun! I'm not a designer or in construction, but I'm betting that the cost is so high because of the structural issues that caused the cracking in the first place.
I see a small slope toward the right in the first and last pictures. At least I think it's a slope. I also see a basement or crawl space window. All of that has to be taken into account as far as drainage away from the house and any settling issues. Open up the concrete with an etching solution. Apply a thin coat of sealer using a roller or sprayer. Wait for the first layer of sealer to dry.
The removal of formwork also called as strike-off of forms in which concrete is poured. The formwork should be removed only after when concrete component achieves its sufficient strength. The care should be taken during the removal of formwork to ensure the stability of the remaining formwork. Efflorescence is a chalky white salt residue that can occur with any product containing cement. As moisture migrates up to the surface of the concrete , it carries along with it calcium salts from within the concrete.
When the salts reach the surface, they react with CO2 in the air and form insoluble calcium carbonate. If soil in contact with the concrete is dry, it will dry out the concrete. With floor coverings put over wet concrete , whether the water comes from the original mix or from a drainage problem, unprotected materials will pick up that moisture and expand, sometimes to the point of destroying the floor.
It will take additional time before you can drive or park heavy equipment or machinery on your newly poured concrete , so make sure to wait at least 30 days. According to Concrete Network, concrete should be allowed to cure for at least seven days before it's built on. However, waiting longer will greatly reduce the risk of the concrete cracking. Concrete continues to cure up to 28 days after it is poured , at which point it reaches maximum strength.
Although concrete will harden soon after pouring, it's still susceptible to damage from weight during the first four weeks. Wait at least 24 hours before allowing foot traffic, including pets, on a newly poured sidewalk or slab, and don't drive a vehicle on a new driveway for at least 10 days.
How long does concrete need to dry before it rains? Category: business and finance construction industry. Concrete can take 24 to 48 hours to set and around a week to partially cure. During this time, walking on the surface is allowed. However, due to the nature of concrete consistency, it is best to avoid heavy equipment during this period. This will ensure no damage is caused to the surface. The key to preventing damage to the concrete surface by a rainstorm is proper preparation and timing.
Before a storm occurs, a protective enclosure can be built around the work site with wood and plastic sheeting. Contractors should never work the rainwater into the freshly placed surface or broadcast dry cement on the wet surface in an attempt to soak up the water. Just because it starts raining during or soon after a concrete pour, does not necessarily mean that your project is doomed.
It all has to do with timing, and at what stage in the curing process the concrete is in. If the rain occurs when the concrete is fresh about hours after mixing , the surface should be protected from the rain. If the finishing process was recently completed, rainwater may not cause damage as long as it is not worked into the surface and the slab is left untouched.
If the concrete has stiffened to the point where it is ready for grooving and grinding typically hours after mixing , damage due to rain is usually no longer a concern.
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